Table of Contents:
- Authenticating Pokémon Cards
- Vintage Era (Wizards of the Coast, 1999–2003)
- Mid-2000s Era (EX Series, Diamond & Pearl era)
- Modern Era (2010s to Present)
- Japanese Cards
- POP Series & Special Promos
- Authenticating Graded Card Slabs
- PSA (Professional Sports Authenticator)
- Beckett (BGS – Beckett Grading Services)
- CGC (Certified Guaranty Company)
Authenticating Pokémon Cards
TL;DR (Cards): Real Pokémon trading cards are printed on layered cardstock with an inner opaque layer (usually black in English/Japanese cards) – fakes often lack this. Use a “light test” or even a rip (last resort!) to check for the black line in the card’s middle[1][2]. Inspect the card’s printing details closely: genuine cards have crisp text and proper fonts, with no spelling errors, and energy symbols in the correct size/alignment[3][4]. Check coloration – the card back of an authentic Pokémon card shows multiple shades of blue (light and dark) in the Poké Ball graphic, whereas many counterfeits have a flat, washed-out single-tone blue[5]. Finally, compare the card to a known genuine example from the same set if possible; even subtle deviations in image quality, holographic pattern, or card dimensions can reveal a fake.
Vintage Era (Base Set and WotC-era cards)
Vintage cards (Base Set through the Neo series, 1999–2003) are heavily counterfeited, so scrutinize them. Common tells for fake Base Set cards include fuzzy or thick print on the text (genuine cards have very sharp, fine text) and coloration issues (e.g. the back may be too light or one-dimensional blue)[6][5]. For example, the font of the HP text and Pokémon names on early fakes often looks off – the characters might be too bold or the wrong style[6]. Authentic early cards also have distinct energy symbols and accents: if a card is missing the accent on “Pokémon” or has misaligned energy symbols, it’s fake[7][4]. Always check for the black cardstock layer as well by looking at the card edge or doing a light test – Wizards of the Coast-era cards should show a dark line in the middle of the cardstock[1][2]. (Be cautious: truly vintage fakes may not show any line at all, since they’re often just paper printouts.) High-value vintage cards like 1st Edition Base Set holos have been counterfeited in large numbers, so verify every detail. If possible, keep a loupe or magnifier handy: genuine cards from this era have a clean rosette pattern in the coloring due to professional printing, whereas many fakes blur or pixellate on the ink dots. In short, for vintage cards, multiple small inconsistencies – font, color, symbols, or missing black core – will usually signal a fake, while an authentic card will look precisely like the known exemplars in every way.
Mid-2000s Era (EX Series, Diamond & Pearl, etc.)
Cards from the mid-2000s (the EX series, 2003–2007, and the Diamond & Pearl/Platinum era, 2007–2010) are less commonly counterfeited than Base Set, but fakes do exist – especially for popular chase cards like EX holos and Gold Star Pokémon. Apply all the same checks as above: card stock and “black line” test, print clarity, and so on. One big giveaway can be the holographic or foil details. Counterfeiters often get the holo pattern wrong. For example, a fake EX-series card might use a glittery foil or a pattern that was never used on the real card. If a card’s foil does not match any known official version, it’s fake – e.g. a card that was only ever non-holo appearing with holo foil, or vice versa. Conversely, if the genuine card should have a special foil texture (like the “starry” holo on Gold Stars or the textured foil on LV.X cards) and the one you’re examining doesn’t, that’s a red flag. Text and symbols remain important: mid-era fakes sometimes have noticeable font errors or even nonsense HP values (some bootlegs from this period gave Pokémon absurd HP or attacks). Authentic cards from this era continued to use the layered cardstock with a black core, so you should still see the black layer in a light test or rip test[1][2]. Overall, mid-era counterfeit cards tend to be easier to spot if you know the set: if anything about the card’s foil, set symbol, or text layout doesn’t match the genuine article, trust your instincts and cross-reference the card with an online database of that set.
Modern Era (2010s to Present)
Modern Pokémon cards (Black & White era through XY, Sun & Moon, and Sword & Shield to today) introduced new design elements that fakes often fail to replicate perfectly. A key example is textured foil: many Ultra Rares (Full Art EX/GX/V cards, Secret Rares, etc.) have deliberate texture patterns in the foil. If you run your finger gently over a genuine Full Art, you’ll feel ridges or patterns, and light will catch these textures at certain angles. Counterfeit cards usually lack this texture – they might be shiny but completely smooth to the touch[8]. Always compare the pattern to a known real card: for instance, a genuine Pokémon GX card often has a specific spiral or etched pattern in the foil, whereas a fake might just have flat hollow shine or even a “grid” texture that doesn’t match the original[8]. Another area to watch is the color printing quality – modern cards have very fine details and gradients (especially in things like the energy symbols on energy cards or the background of Full Arts). Fakes can be blurrier or slightly off-color. Check that the set code and collector number on the bottom left are correct and actually correspond to the right set/card; modern fakes sometimes print the wrong set symbol or an impossible number. As always, the black core test applies too: genuine modern TCG cards still have the semi-opaque black layer in the middle, so a strong flashlight behind the card should reveal dark, horizontal lines (the black ink layer) and not shine straight through[2]. If a card glows too much under a light (no sign of a dark layer), it’s likely a fake. Finally, inspect the small text (like the copyright info and the printer codes at the bottom of the card): on real cards this text is razor-sharp and easily legible with a magnifier, whereas fakes often have this text slightly smudged or in the wrong font. Modern counterfeiters have improved, so don’t rely on just one test – combine checks (light test and texture and print clarity, etc.) to be confident.
Japanese Cards
Authenticating Japanese Pokémon cards uses the same principles as English cards – check print quality, card stock, etc. – but with a few additional notes. First, be aware that the card back design for Japanese cards is often different from the English ones. For example, older Japanese cards (1996–2001 era) have the original “Pocket Monsters Card Game” back design, which looks different from the English blue-back design. So, if you see a Japanese card with a back that doesn’t match what you expect, research if it’s from an older or special set rather than assuming it’s fake[9]. (Likewise, some modern Japanese promo cards can have unique backs – always verify the expected back for the specific card or set.) In terms of counterfeits: historically, fewer fakes target Japanese cards because the market demand (outside of Japan) is smaller[10]. However, they do exist, especially for high-value Japanese exclusives (like trophy cards or older promos). Use the same tools: the light test for a black or blue core, feeling the card texture, comparing fonts and spacing to a known genuine card. One notable difference: some authentic Japanese cards (and Korean cards) use a blue core layer instead of black – for instance, many Korean Pokémon cards have a bluish tint in the middle layer rather than pure black[11]. Japanese cards are typically very high print quality, so any card that looks washed-out, off-center, or has misprinted text is suspect. Overall, while you’re statistically less likely to encounter a fake Japanese card, don’t drop your guard. Examine holographic areas (the holo on Japanese cards is often different, e.g. mirrorfoil patterns or unique sparkle—fakes might substitute a cheaper foil), check that any serial numbers or labels (like for promo cards) are correct, and ensure the card dimensions and corner roundness match official cards. In short, treat Japanese cards with the same scrutiny as English ones – the signs of forgery (poor cut edges, font errors, no inner layer, etc.) are essentially the same.
POP Series & Special Promos
Special promotional cards deserve a mention because some legitimate promos don’t follow the usual card production rules. A prime example is the POP Series cards (promo mini-sets distributed via Pokémon Organized Play in the mid-2000s). Many cards from POP Series 1–9 were printed on slightly different cardstock – collectors have noted, for instance, that POP Series 5 cards lack the typical black core layer that standard cards have (making them appear thinner or flimsier)【13†L13-L21(TikTok)】. In other words, doing a light test on an authentic POP Series 5 card might not show the expected black line, even though the card is real. This means you should rely more heavily on other factors for those: the clarity of the printing, the feel of the card, and where it was obtained. Generally, promotional cards (whether POP series, prerelease promos, or movie promos) should be examined for the overall quality. Pokémon’s official promos are printed by reputable companies and have the same sharp print and correct fonts as regular set cards. If you have a promo card that feels off – e.g. overly glossy or too thick/thin, or with misaligned artwork – that’s a warning sign. Always consider the source: POP series packs were only given out at events or in certain products, so if someone is selling loose POP cards dirt-cheap from an unofficial source, be cautious. In summary, know the quirks of the specific promo: if it’s known that a certain card doesn’t have a black core or uses an unusual holofoil, factor that in. And as a rule, any time a card seems odd but passes one test, do a couple more tests. It’s about building confidence through multiple checkpoints.
(Remember: Combining observations is key. A genuine card will check out on all points – cardstock, text, color, etc. A fake might imitate one or two aspects well but will flunk others. When in doubt, consult the community or experts. With experience, you’ll get a feel for what genuine cards look/feel like – as one collector puts it, once you learn to spot a fake, “you will notice out-of-place fonts… and once you see a fake you can’t unsee it”[6].)
Authenticating Graded Card Slabs
TL;DR (Slabs): The best first step is to verify the grading certification number online – PSA, Beckett, and CGC all provide cert lookup tools. Ensure the card details (and any image, if provided) match the slab you’re checking[12][13]. Next, inspect the physical slab for signs of tampering: if you see cracks, gaps, or unusually “frosty” (cloudy white) edges along the sonic weld seam, the slab may have been pried open and re-glued[14]. Check the label printing and security features: PSA labels should be semi-transparent when back-lit (you can decipher reverse text through a genuine label)[15] and have holographic emblems; BGS (Beckett) labels/cases should have the text “PAT. 6,295,750 B1” on the bottom (including the period after “PAT.”) – missing that dot or text is a known sign of fakes[16]; CGC labels include holograms and a QR code – any obvious error in the holo pattern, text, or code placement is suspect[17]. Also, pay attention to the engraved markings on the case: for example, a real PSA slab has a tiny PSA logo embossed in the plastic (usually bottom right corner) that you can feel with your fingernail[18]. Finally, judge the card inside – does its condition grade make sense? If you see a “Gem Mint 10” with clearly damaged corners, or a label saying one thing and the card is another, something’s very wrong (it could be a swapped card or fake label)[19]. Always cross-verify everything and don’t hesitate to ask for clear close-up photos or even video of the slab before buying[20].
PSA Slabs
PSA is the most popular grading company, and unfortunately that means PSA slabs are the most commonly counterfeited. To legit-check a PSA slab, start with the basics: verify the certification number on PSA’s website. Go to PSA’s Cert Verification page and enter the serial – it will tell you the card and grade that are supposed to be encapsulated. The details (card name, set, year, grade) should match exactly what you have in hand[12]. Newer PSA slabs also have a QR code on the label; scanning it should pull up the same info from PSA. If the lookup says the cert is invalid, or the details differ (e.g. the database says the cert is a Charizard but the slab has a Blastoise), do not trust that slab.
Next, examine the PSA case itself. PSA uses ultrasonic sealing to weld the case halves, which leaves a tight, clear seam. If you notice any continuous frosting or cloudiness along the edges (beyond a few small white sonic weld specks) or any little cracks/gaps, that could indicate the slab was cracked open or a poor copy of the case[14]. A genuine PSA slab’s plastic will be crystal clear and smooth; fakes sometimes have slightly cloudy plastic or ill-fitting halves.
Look for the PSA logo engraving on the case. On authentic PSA holders, “PSA” is molded into the plastic – on older slabs it’s on the front lower right, on current “lighthouse” label slabs it’s on the back – and this logo should be raised (you can run a finger over it and feel it) rather than just printed[18]. Many fake PSA cases miss this or have a smooth logo area. Also, peering inside, note the shape of the inner card sleeve/rails: PSA uses small rails in the mold to hold the card in place (not a full sleeve). The corners of the well that the card sits in are sharp 90° angles in a real PSA case. If you see rounded inner corners or a different well structure, that’s a red flag[21].
Now onto the PSA label: PSA’s current labels have several security features (holographic PSA logos, microprinting, UV-reactive ink, etc.). One quick authenticity check is the “light test” for the label: hold the slab up in front of a bright light and look through the label from one side to the other. You should be able to make out the printed text from the opposite side (not crystal clear, but discernible)[15]. This is because PSA prints their label on a single sheet – if a scammer has printed a fake label and stuck it over an existing one, it’ll be two layers and opaque when back-lit[15]. So, if you can’t see any text shadow through a PSA label under strong light, that’s a bad sign. Additionally, check the little PSA hologram on the label (older labels had a silver hologram square, newer ones a holographic PSA logo pattern): it should have a quality shine and detail – fakes may omit it or use a crude foiling.
Font and formatting errors are another giveaway. PSA’s label font is fairly distinctive (for example, the “G” in “GEM MINT 10” on a real label is a simple block G – some fake labels have had a decorative tail on the G, which is incorrect[22]). The spacing of text and alignment should match PSA’s official style: if you see misaligned text, weird fonts, or spelling mistakes on the label, it’s undoubtedly fake[23]. The PSA label’s dimensions are also standardized – known fakes have had labels cut slightly too short, not filling the entire label slot at the top of the case[24].
Always match the label to PSA’s database. PSA now provides high-resolution scans for many cards graded in recent years[25][26], so if you’re buying a high-value PSA card, try to obtain the image from PSA and compare it to the slab you have (the card and label should be identical). Finally, evaluate the card vs. the grade: scammers sometimes take a real PSA slab, crack it, and swap the card. So if you have a PSA 9 or 10 that does not look like it’s that high grade (perhaps you spot obvious whitening or dents on the card), the slab may have been tampered with. A genuine PSA 10 card should appear virtually flawless at first glance; a beat-up card in a PSA 10 case is a major red flag of a swapped fake.
Beckett (BGS) Slabs
Beckett Grading Services (BGS) slabs have their own set of security cues. Start by verifying the cert number on Beckett’s website. Beckett’s lookup will confirm the card, grade, and subgrades. If the cert isn’t found or details don’t match, that’s an immediate fail. Be aware that BGS serial numbers are often on the label with a barcode but you typically have to input them online yourself (or scan the barcode via the Beckett app) – do so before relying on the slab.
Physically, check the BGS case quality. Beckett slabs are thicker and heavier than PSA/CGC, and use an inner soft sleeve that’s sealed inside. If you see a BGS slab where the card is not in a clear inner sleeve (i.e. it’s loose or can slide around more than a millimeter), that’s suspicious – authentic BGS always has the card in a fitted sleeve. Examine the edges of the slab for any signs of pry marks or glue. Beckett cases are also sonic welded; a real one typically won’t have large sections of frosting. That said, also inspect the embossed text: A real BGS case has “BECKETT” debossed at the top of the front and a patent number embossed at the bottom front. On a genuine recent BGS slab, you should see “PAT. 6,295,750 B1” in small raised letters on the bottom edge. Crucially, the presence of the period after “PAT” and the spacing are important – in known fake BGS slabs, the patent text was slightly off (for instance, missing the dot and space after PAT)[27][16]. If the slab in question has no patent text at all, or it’s obviously mis-spaced or different font, it’s likely a counterfeit holder.
Look closely at the Beckett label itself. BGS labels (especially for 9.5/10 grades) have distinct gold (or silver for lower grades) coloring and a certain typography. Verify that the label’s foil color matches the grade (gold for 9.5+ gem mint/pristine, silver for 8.5–9, white for lower grades or Authentic). Many fakes mess this up. The label should also list subgrades (if it’s a standard BGS grade, not BCCG or a special case). If subgrades are missing when they should be there, or vice versa, be cautious. Check the font and logo: the Beckett shield logo and text on the label should be crisp. In past counterfeit BGS labels, people have noticed letters looking wrong (for example, a different style “C” in “Beckett” or the little registered ® symbol being the wrong size[28][29]). Minor font variances can occur in authentic slabs due to printing batches, but anything blatantly different (letters misaligned, text too bold, etc.) is a bad sign.
One simple trick: feel the slab’s sturdiness. Beckett slabs are very sturdy and don’t flex much. If you handle a BGS slab and it feels creaky or the halves shift, that could indicate a fake (or a slab that was opened). Also, because BGS slabs don’t have hologram stickers on the label (unlike PSA and CGC)[30], you can’t rely on a missing hologram as a tell – instead, rely on the engraved details and label correctness. A known incident in 2020 involved highly convincing fake BGS cases in the sports card world; Beckett confirmed those and one of the easiest tells was indeed the patent stamping being wrong[31]. Thus, that patent text is one of your top checkpoints.
As always, cross-check the card inside too. Scammers might put a different (lower value or lower grade) card in an authentic BGS case after cracking it. If the card doesn’t match the grade or description on the label (e.g., the label says “1st Edition” but the card has no 1st ed stamp), or if a supposedly Pristine 10 card has obvious flaws, something’s amiss. Beckett also maintains a population report; if you have a very high-value BGS card, you can verify if the serial number’s grade is unique or if any duplicates exist (duplicates could hint at one being fake). In summary, focus on the patent text, inner sleeve, label accuracy, and overall build quality to authenticate a BGS slab. When those all look good and the online cert checks out, you can be quite confident the slab is real.
CGC Slabs
CGC (which began grading Pokémon cards around 2020) slabs have quickly become targets of counterfeiters as well. To validate a CGC slab, your first step should be to use the CGC Cards cert lookup. On CGC’s official site, you can enter the certification number printed on the label. It will return the card’s details, and in many cases CGC also provides registry photos of the graded card[13]. Compare the image and details: the card in the slab should match perfectly what CGC shows (down to any hologram pattern or imperfections visible in the photo). If the CGC lookup shows a different card, or the serial isn’t found, then the slab is not authentic. CGC’s lookup is a powerful tool – for example, a collector was able to confirm a slab was genuine by seeing that the wear marks on the card matched the CGC database photo[32][33].
Physically, inspect the CGC case and label carefully. CGC slabs have a few notable features: a holographic foil strip on the front of the label (with “CGC” letters and sometimes a pattern like dots or micro-text), another hologram on the back, and a QR code. In a recent case of a fake CGC Pristine 10 Ancient Mew slab, counterfeiters impressively duplicated much of the label’s appearance – the textured gold “Pristine 10” lettering, the holo foil, etc. – such that at first glance it looked real[34]. However, they made mistakes: the hologram dot pattern on the label was slightly off (the “orb” positions didn’t match CGC’s official pattern) and the QR code was a different size than usually seen[35][17]. Interestingly, CGC’s genuine labels do have some variation in QR code sizing (depending on the label generation), so a QR code being a bit large or small isn’t by itself proof of a fake[17]. Thus, focus on the overall label quality: are the colors correct and not faded? Is the CGC logo in the foil clear and not blurry? Are all the printed texts (card name, grade, etc.) spelled right and aligned? A fake will often have a minor print anomaly if you look closely.
Examine the plastic case too. Early generation CGC slabs (2020–2021) had an issue where the two halves could be separated without obvious damage (no frosting), which is scary because a card and label could be swapped without leaving the usual clues[36]. CGC improved their case design later to prevent this easy opening. For an added layer of security, you can do a blacklight/UV test: authentic CGC labels (especially newer ones or special labels like the black “Perfect 10” label) have UV-reactive inks or features. Some collectors note that CGC labels might show hidden logos under UV light[37]. If you have a UV flashlight, you could check if the CGC logo or certain areas fluoresce as expected (you’d need to know what to look for from a known real slab). A fake label likely won’t replicate these covert features.
One more thing: ensure the slab’s label and the card correspond logically. CGC slabs will say the card name, set, number, etc. If it’s a known valuable card, double-check population reports or community reports – for instance, if you encounter a CGC Pristine 10 of a card that’s extremely rare, see if that cert number has been publicly noted or if multiple identical CGC 10s exist (which could imply one is a fake). In the example of the fake Ancient Mew, there were two Pristine 10s with the same cert number floating around – obviously impossible unless one was counterfeit[38].
In summary, use CGC’s online resources and your eyes. Verify the cert and study the label’s fine details (hologram, text, QR). CGC slabs have robust security, but as we’ve learned, a skilled forger can mimic a lot – yet there’s usually something off, be it the wrong font weight or a slightly misaligned graphic. If everything looks right and the database confirms it, the slab is very likely legit. If something feels off, trust that feeling: gather more evidence (ask for close-up photos under different lighting, compare with a confirmed real CGC slab side-by-side if you can). It’s better to be overly cautious than to end up with a fake.
Final Tips: Whether it’s a raw card or a graded slab, due diligence is crucial. Use multiple methods to authenticate – don’t rely on just one. For cards: check texture, print, and core; for slabs: check cert, case, and label. Buy from reputable sources whenever possible, and if a deal seems too good to be true, it often is. In the end, knowing the real details (and sometimes having the right tools like a magnifier or UV light) will make fakes obvious. The more genuine cards and slabs you examine, the easier it gets to spot the fakes – after all, “once you see a fake, you can’t unsee it”[6]. Stay vigilant and you’ll keep your collection safe and authentic!
Sources:
- ZenMarket – How to Tell If a Pokémon Card Is Fake? (printing, cardstock, and common counterfeit tells)[1][2][3][5]
- CGC Forums – discussion on spotting fake cards (font clarity and color differences)[6]
- Reddit r/PokeGrading – Visual Guide: How to Spot Fake PSA Slabs [2025] (PSA slab security features and checklist)[14][18][12]
- PSA Official Guide – PSA’s tips on slab tamper-evidence and label checks[15]
- Elite Fourum (efour) – Overview of Graded Cards & Counterfeits (notes on fake BGS slabs and patent # tells)[27]
- ClutchPoints – 4 Best Tips to Spot a Fake Graded Card (PSA label light test and BGS slab tips)[16]
- Elite Fourum – Possibly fake CGC Pristine slab discussion (catching hologram and QR code errors on a fake CGC label)[17][34]
- Reddit r/IsMyPokemonCardFake – CGC slab verification via cert lookup (using CGC’s registry images to confirm a slab)[13]
[1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [7] [8] [9] [10] How To Tell If A Pokemon Card Is Fake? (Guide)
https://zenmarket.jp/en/blog/post/9853/how-to-tell-if-a-pokemon-card-is-fake
[6] What To Look For In Fake Pokémon Cards – CGC Cards General Discussion – CGC Comic Book Collectors Chat Boards
https://boards.cgccomics.com/topic/537488-what-to-look-for-in-fake-pok%C3%A9mon-cards
[11] Are these cards fake? I recently bought a Korean Alter Genesis booster box from eBay. I was wondering if they are real or not and so I ripped a card in half. It has 3 layers, but the middle one is blue and not black. Any feedback is appreciated! : r/PokemonTCG
[12] [14] [18] [19] [21] [22] Visual Guide: How to Spot Fake PSA Slabs [2025] : r/PokeGrading
[13] [32] [33] Any tips for spotting fakes with CGC? I saw a YouTube video about fake PSA slabs on eBay but I don’t know how to confirm if CGCs are real. Looking for pointers 🙂 Thanks! : r/IsMyPokemonCardFake
[15] [16] [20] [23] [24] PSA/BGS slab scam? 4 best tips to spot a fake graded card
[17] [34] [35] [38] Possibly fake CGC Pristine Slabs – News & Links – Elite Fourum
[25] [26] [27] [30] [31] [36] Overview of PSA, BGS, & CGC Graded Cards + Counterfeits – Articles – Elite Fourum
[28] [29] Please help, is this authentic? – Question – Elite Fourum
[37] CGC slabs glow on the sides when using a blacklight. Did … – Reddit